Satin pillowcase or silk pillowcase: which is better?
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In the shop they look almost identical: both smooth, both shiny. Yet a silk pillowcase costs several times as much as a satin one. What do you get for the difference, and when is satin perfectly fine? Silkora sells only silk, so we'll be upfront: satin has its strong points too. Below we compare the two on fibre, smoothness, warmth, washing and price, and explain how to recognise real silk.
The difference in a nutshell
- Satin is a weave with one smooth, shiny side. You'll mostly find satin pillowcases made of polyester.
- Silk is a fibre spun by the silkworm, and a silk pillowcase is often woven as satin too. So the real choice is between polyester and silk.
- Both are smooth, so for tangles and frizz the difference is smaller than you might think.
- Silk breathes better and feels cooler. Polyester satin is cheaper and easier to wash.
Fibre and weave: where the difference lies
In a satin weave, the threads on the surface float over several threads at a time instead of going over and under one by one. That creates an even surface that reflects the light. The weave works with all kinds of yarn: polyester, viscose, cotton or silk. If the label only says 'satin', it is in practice almost always polyester, a plastic made from crude oil. Cotton sateen, common in bed linen, is the same weave in cotton: it shines more than ordinary cotton, but because cotton fibres are short it is never as smooth as silk or polyester satin.
Silk pillowcases are usually woven in a satin weave as well. That fabric is called silk satin or charmeuse, and Silkora's pillowcases are woven this way: charmeuse made of mulberry silk. So the difference from a satin pillowcase isn't the weave but the yarn: protein from the silkworm's cocoon versus plastic from a factory. That explains nearly every other difference, from warmth to price.
- Satin = the weave
- Silk = the fibre
- Charmeuse = silk in a satin weave
- Cotton sateen = cotton in a satin weave

Silk and polyester satin side by side
| Silk | Polyester satin | |
|---|---|---|
| Fibre | Protein, from the silkworm | Plastic, from crude oil |
| Weight | In momme; 22 at Silkora | No momme |
| Smoothness | Very smooth | Very smooth |
| Breathability | Good | Moderate |
| On a warm night | Feels cool | Can feel clammy |
| Washing | Laundry bag, 30 °C at most | As the label says, often warmer |
| Tumble dryer | No | Sometimes |
| Price | Higher | Low |
| Animal fibre | Yes | No |
Three of these points decide most choices:
- Smoothness: a drawBoth are far smoother than cotton, so your hair glides on either.
- Warmth: silk winsIt lets air through and stays fresh on a warm night.
- Washing: satin winsWarmer washes, often the tumble dryer, hardly any ironing.
Momme: a measure for silk
Momme is the unit used for the weight of silk. A higher number means a fuller, denser fabric. The measure isn't used for polyester satin. If you do come across a satin pillowcase with a momme figure, check that the label also says '100% silk'. Silkora uses 22 momme mulberry silk of Grade 6A. How many momme you need is explained in our buying guide.
Smoothness: little difference for your hair
Tangles and frizz come mainly from friction, and there silk and satin are close: both are much smoother than cotton. If fewer tangles in the morning is what you're after, a good satin pillowcase already does a lot. What a silk pillowcase does and doesn't do beyond that is in our article on silk, skin and hair.
Breathing and warmth: silk wins here
Polyester lets little air and moisture through. On a warm night a satin pillowcase can start to feel clammy, right where your cheek rests. Silk lets more air through and feels fresh the moment you put your head down. The two also handle moisture differently: polyester absorbs almost none, silk a little and cotton a lot. So silk feels clammy less quickly, while less of your night cream soaks into the fabric than with cotton.
In dry air, for example in winter with the heating on, polyester can also become static. Fine hairs then float or cling to the pillowcase.
Washing: satin wins here
A polyester satin pillowcase is easy to look after. It can often go in at 40 degrees, sometimes in the tumble dryer, and it hardly creases. Do check the label, as it varies from one pillowcase to the next. Silk needs more attention: a laundry bag, a silk detergent, 30 °C at most and no tumble dryer. How to do that in a few minutes each week is in our step-by-step guide to washing a silk pillowcase.
Price: why silk costs more
Polyester is made in large quantities in factories, and you see that in the price: a satin pillowcase often costs a fraction of a silk one. Silk has to be farmed. The caterpillars eat mulberry leaves for weeks, then the cocoons are unwound and the thread is woven into fabric. A dense 22 momme fabric takes a lot of silk. That is why a Silkora silk pillowcase starts at €49.95. Whether it's worth it depends on what matters to you.
How to recognise real silk
A pillowcase that shines and feels smooth isn't necessarily silk. Here's what to look for:
Probably polyester
- Only 'satin', 'silky' or 'silk-soft' on the label
- A bright, flat shine
- Feels slick and a little slippery
- '100% silk' for a few euros, which is too good to be true
Real silk
- '100% silk' or '100% mulberry silk' on the label
- A soft, pearly sheen that changes with the light
- Feels supple and soon takes on the warmth of your hand
Still unsure? Try the burn test
Light a loose thread from a seam over the sink. Silk burns slowly, smells of burnt hair and leaves crumbly ash; polyester melts into a hard bead and smells of plastic. Never do this with the pillowcase itself.
Note: an OEKO-TEX® label says something about harmful substances, not about the material. A polyester pillowcase can carry that label too.

Where satin does better
- Price: for the price of one silk pillowcase you can buy several satin ones.
- Care: warmer washes, often the tumble dryer, and hardly any ironing.
- No animal fibre: silk comes from the silkworm. If you'd rather not use animal products, polyester or viscose satin suits you better.
- Frequent washing: for a guest bed or a child's room, where a pillowcase often goes in the wash without fuss.
Which suits you?
Choose satin if you
- mainly want a smooth pillowcase for little money
- want to wash it hot without fuss
- would rather avoid animal fibre
Choose silk if you
- get warm quickly at night
- want a natural fibre against your face
- simply love the feel of silk
- don't mind a delicate wash once a week
Still weighing up cotton, bamboo or flannel? Our comparison of pillowcase materials covers them all.

Frequently asked questions
Is a satin pillowcase as good as a silk one?
For smoothness satin comes close, and for your hair that's what counts most. In breathability and feel, polyester falls short. Which is better depends on what you're looking for.
Is a silk satin pillowcase silk or satin?
Both: the fibre is silk, the weave is satin. Do read the composition, because a name like 'silky satin' is also used for polyester.
Is a satin pillowcase bad for your hair or skin?
No. Satin is smooth and therefore kind to your hair. Its drawback is mainly warmth: if you sweat easily, polyester is less comfortable to sleep on.
Want to feel silk for yourself? Every Silkora pillowcase is charmeuse of 22 momme mulberry silk, with a hidden zip and in three sizes.